Fly fishing,
more than any other form of fishing, requires a balanced system - rod, reel, line,
and leader all need to work together. Therefore it is important to select the
right line and leader to ensure that your system works as a unit.
There
are a number of factors involved in choosing the proper fly fishing line.
Line weight
Fly fishing line
weight is ranked from 1 to 15, with 1 being the lightest and 15 the heaviest
Lighter
lines are suited for delicate presentations and for casting light flies
Heavier
lines are best for casting large, wind-resistant and heavy flies
Line
weight is the easiest to select since this should be matched to your rod and reel
Fly
fishing requires a balanced system so match the reel and rod. If you don't, you
will hurt your casting accuracy and efficiency.
A
5 weight reel matches up with a 5 weight rod, so it follows that you should select
a 5 weight line
Some
manufacturers give a leeway by saying you can go one above or below this, say
a 4 weight or 6 weight line with a 5 weight reel and rod. If you want to be safe,
though, match the line, rod and reel exactly.
Your
fly fishing line weight should also be selected based on the fish you want to
catch
You'll
need line weights from 1 to 7 lbs for lighter fish such as panfish and most trout
Bass
need a little heavier weight, from 7 to 9 lbs
Larger
freshwater and saltwater fish take the heaviest lines--an 8 to 15 lbs
Line
taper
To
help you cast more efficiently most fly lines are tapered.
This taper varies in weight, diameter and thickness over the length of the line.
There
are five main types of taper, each to meet a specific purpose
The
taper is listed as an abbreviation by the manufacturer, with the usual abbreviations
included in the following discussion:
Weight-forward
(WF) taper
These
are the most popular and the best choice if you are a beginner
The
first 30 feet or so of line is heavier because of its tapered front end
The
rest of the line is thinner and is known as the running line
The
weight-forward line helps with long casts and better precision even in windy conditions
Bass
bug/saltwater (BBT) taper
This
taper is much like the weight-forward design except that the front section does
not run as long
This
design helps with heavier flies, hence its use for catching feisty bass or bigger
saltwater fish
Double
taper (DT)
DT
fly lines are preferred by seasoned fly anglers
These
lines work especially well in making delicate presentations on small- to medium-size
rives since the belly is at the center, with both ends gradually tapering
This
makes the line highly economical too because when one end wears out, you can turn
the line around and use the other end
This
line won't cast as far or provide as much wind resistance as a weight-forward
line
Shooting
taper (ST)
ST
lines cast farther than other lines so they are designed for fast-running rivers
and in extreme wind conditions. The line portion (front section) is stout and
short to form a casting loop.
Most
anglers attach a shooting line on the running line using monofilament,
braided line or a very fine diameter fly line
Level
(L) taper
These
lines are uniform in diameter throughout, making them the most economical
If
you are a beginner don't try to save money this way. Level taper lines are the
most difficult to cast so they really are best used by seasoned veterans, primarily
for fly fishing with live bait.
Density
How your line
behaves on the water depends on its density or line type,
which affects its buoyancy
With
different types of line available, consider buying an extra spool when you purchase
your reel. That way you can spool various types of line and switch lines to meet
conditions.
There
are four choices, and each carries an abbreviation, included below, to identify
its density:
Floating
(F) lines
These
do as they say--they float on the water's surface
Floating
lines are good for beginners since they are easier to cast and handle
Floating
lines also are a must for dry flies, but they can also work with wet flies, nymphs
and streamers that are fished several feet below the surface
Intermediate
(I) lines
These
are a little denser than water so they sink slowly to present a fly just below
the water's surface
These
lines work well in shallow, weedy lakes and in choppy waters where you want your
line to stay below the choppiness
Sinking
(S) lines
These
lines do the opposite of floating lines--they sink
They
are designed for deep lakes and deep, fast-flowing rivers
Some
manufacturers also put a Roman numeral after the S to show how fast their line
sinks in inches per second. For example, an S II line sinks about two inches per
second
These
lines are best for wet flies, nymphs and streamers at a constant depth
Floating/Sinking
(F/S) lines
These
combine the two characteristics--the five foot-- to twenty foot tip or front portion
sinks to present the bait while the balance of line floats on the water
Manufacturers
display the depth and speed that the front part of the line sinks
This
floating/sinking line gets your fly down while helping you maintain control, so
it's good for fish such as salmon and steelhead
Color
If you are a beginner,
select a highly visible color--yellow, orange, lime green and some shades of tan
These
colors are easier to see on the water when you cast so you can more easily recognize
and correct any casting mistakes
For
sinking lines, you should go with something that's less visible to fish such as
brown, olive, dark green or black
Backing
Fly lines need
a thin, high-visibility line tied between the reel spool and back end of your
fly line
This
generally comes in 20-pound to 30-pound test, with 20-pound suggested for fly
line weights less than 8 and the 30-pound test for use with 8-weight line or higher
Backing
performs three critical functions:
This
adds length to your fly line, which typically runs only 90 feet
This
then helps you land big, strong fish that run with your line. Experts suggest
that use at least 100 yards of backing but up to 200 yards for longer-running
fish and saltwater fish.
This
also keeps your reel spool full, making line retrieval faster and minimizing line
recoil. (See fly reels.)
Leaders
To make delicate
presentations--or another way of letting your fly or other selected lure hit the
water like a natural bug--you need a special, tapered length of line that connects
your fly line to the fly
The
fly is then tied to the thinnest part of the line called the tippet, which ensures
there won't be a big splash that scares away that big fish
When
you're out on the water, you want several different sizes and lengths of leaders
to adapt to changing conditions and fly sizes
Leaders
come in a system that helps you match the size of the tippet with the weight of
your fly
The
tippet is the end section of your tapered leader, the part that ties to your fly
These
tippets carry an "X-rating" based on their diameter ranging from 0X to 8X
It's
a little deceiving because OX is the thickest and strongest and 8X is the thinnest
and weakest. Just remember to think opposite of the number designations.
It
is important to carry extra spools of tippet material. Each time you tie a fly,
you reduce the length of your leader. After half a dozen changes, you probably
will have shortened your leader a foot so you can get back to where you started
by tying on another foot of tippet.
There
are two ways to choose a leader:
Based
on fly size--follow these general guidelines:
Determining
Your Leader
Leader
size
Recommended
fly sizes
0X
fly
sizes 2 - 1/0
1X
fly
sizes 4 - 8
2X
fly
sizes 6 - 10
3X
fly
sizes 10 - 14
4X
fly
sizes 12 - 16
5X
fly
sizes 14 - 18
6X
fly
sizes 16 - 22
7X
fly
sizes 18 - 24
8X
fly
sizes 22 - 28
To
help even more, 4X and 5X are used most often for trout, with 3X and 6X close
behind
Leaders
six feet and shorter are best with sinking or sink-tip lines
Small
streams are perfect for 7 ½-foot leaders
For
trout, use a 9 foot leader since this length works well with dry flies, wet flies
and nymphs on fast-moving water
In
slower water where you really need extreme delicacy, use longer leaders--12 feet
or more