Fly Fishing Frequently Asked Questions

	What is fly fishing?
	What is a fly?
	Is fly-casting more difficult than other types of casting?
	What is a leader and why do I need one?
	What equipment do I need to get started?
	How do I choose a fly line?
	How do I choose a fly reel?
	Should I get a disc drag, or a spring and pawl reel?
	Should I retrieve with my right hand or left hand?

What is Fly Fishing?

Fly fishing is attempting to catch fish with an almost weightless artificial known as a “fly”. It is the oldest form of sport fishing known to man. Fly fishing is typically practiced using a fly rod, fly reel, fly line, tapered leader and of course a fly.

Although there is evidence of the use of flies tied on bone hooks as early as 1400 BC in Egypt, it really became codified into its sporting form in the UK in the 1400’s. Dame Juliana Berners authored the first book on fly fishing in 1496 (Treatise on Fishing with an Angle) and some of the flies and methods described in this book are still effective today.

Although you can fly fish for just about any fish that swims, fly fishing is a particularly effective method for catching trout. Trout will certainly take cheese, worms and other types of bait, but aquatic insects make up most of their natural diet and are readily available to them throughout the year. Fly fishing allows you to realistically imitate these aquatic insects with a delicacy not possible by any other method of fishing.

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What is a Fly?

A ”fly” is an artificial lure that is typically constructed out of fur, feathers, and perhaps synthetic materials. These materials are tied to a hook in an attempt to imitate the size, shape, and color of the food form that the fish is feeding upon. Some are also tied in an attempt to trigger a predatory response from the fish. Originally (and still in the UK) the description of “fly” was only used to describe an imitation of an insect. In the US and many other parts of the world, that definition has been expanded to generally describe any imitation fished with a fly rod including imitations of other fish. In the UK, “flies” that are tied to imitate fish as opposed to insects are known as lures.

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Is fly-casting more difficult than other types of casting?

Fly-casting is different but not unduly difficult. It is not as intuitive as other types of casting, but with practiced attention to a few basics, it can be learned in an afternoon. However, like chess, although the moves can quickly be learned, a lifetime may be spent truly mastering the intricacies and possibilities. A casting lesson from a qualified instructor will shorten the learning curve dramatically. There are also some good videos on the subject such as The Orvis Progressive Fly Casting Method. Short periods of practice (30 to 40 minutes) two to three times a week generally produce the best results in the shortest amount of time.

Fly-casting is different from “regular” casting because of the physics involved. In spin and bait casting, you cast the lure or bait and the line follows along for the ride. In fly-casting, you are casting the line and the fly follows along for the ride.

With spin or bait casting you either have a lure or some other weight on the end of the line. With a quick flick of the wrist this weight bends (loads) the rod, and then the rod unloads hurling the weight or lure out towards the target.

With fly-casting, the weight on the end of the line is virtually non-existent. Flies weigh almost nothing. So, the weight of the fly line is used to load the rod. Because the fly line weight is distributed over a larger area and is not concentrated just at the tip, the casting motion required is different. Instead of a quick flick of the wrist, a slower, longer move, often called “accelerating to a stop”, works best.

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What is a leader and why do I need one?

The leader encompasses everything between the fly and the fly line. It is usually made out of monofilament nylon (some use braided nylon) or similar materials. Leaders used in fly fishing are typically tapered and can be anywhere from as little as three feet to as much as 20+ feet in length.

Fly lines are comparatively big and opaque, and are too large even at the smallest section to tie onto a fly. The leader removes the fly from the vicinity of the heavier and more obvious fly line and is usually transparent. It is also tapered small enough to tie to a fly. When used in the appropriate size to match the fly you are using, the leader will allow the fly to be delivered effectively to the target, and yet still drift naturally in the current.

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What do I need to purchase to get started?

The first thing you need to buy is a fly rod. Then you will need a tapered fly line (do not buy a level fly line) a fly reel, a leader, and some flies. The next purchase should be a good pair of polarized sunglasses and a hat. Polarized sunglasses will cut through the glare on the water and allow you to more closely follow your fly. This allows you to detect strikes more easily and, hopefully, catch more fish. A hat with a wide brim will help stop the sun from burning your ears, and sneaking in around the edges of your sunglasses. It will also help protect your ears and the back of your head from your fly on an errant cast.

If you expect to fish from the bank or from a boat, you can hold off on purchasing a vest and waders for the moment and just use a shirt with big pockets to get started. When the pockets will no longer hold the items you need, then you should get a vest. Into those pockets you should put a fly box, such as the Worlds Lightest and Most Indestructible Fly Box. This one box will hold all the flies you’ll need for the first year or so. Also into those pockets you should put a hook hone to sharpen your flies, fly floatant for dry flies, a selection of small Non-Toxic split shot or sink putty for fishing nymphs, some sunblock, and some bug repellent.

Outside your pockets you should attach a snip and zinger so that you can easily reach it. The snip is the tool you will use the most and it needs to be conveniently placed. You can also hang a pair of forceps (not hemostats) to the flap of your pocket if you click the handles to the second notch. One click sometimes lets go, two clicks doesn’t.

Waders (breathable, neoprene, or nylon)will allow much greater mobility allowing you to get into the water for a better angle on the fish, and allow you to get away from the fly-eating trees on your back cast. Depending on the type of water that you fish, you may want to purchase either bootfoot or stocking foot waders. Boot foot waders are convenient, but stocking foot waders with separate boots give you better support and allow you to be athletic in your wading. If you use chest waders, for safety reasons you should **always** wear a wading belt. Women’s waders are also available.

As you progress in fly fishing skill, you will find items that you may want or need to tailor the experience to your temperament. Add them as you progress, but this should get you started.

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How do I choose a fly line?

The first thing in choosing a fly line is to be sure that you get the correct weight of fly line to match your rod. Orvis rods are rated for the appropriate fly line weight either on the rod blank above the handle, or in some cases engraved in the butt-cap of the rod. If the rod says it is a 5-weight rod you should use a 5-weight line on it. Generally speaking, using a heavier or lighter line than the rod is rated for will sacrifice some aspect of the rod’s performance.

Next you will decide which taper is best for your fishing conditions. The taper is what makes a fly line easy to cast and gives your presentation its subtlety. Energy is consumed as the fly cast unfurls. As the energy is used up, the mass of the tapered fly line decreases because of that taper. This allows the cast to unfold completely and allows your fly to land gently on the water. The tapered section of the line also disturbs the water less when it lands so you are less likely to spook trout.

Fly lines come in a variety or tapers and variations of tapers, but basically they are available as level line, double tapers, weight forward, and shooting tapers.

Level lines are useless for fly fishing and basically a waste of money. They do not cast well and they have no delicacy. With a level line the energy will often dissipate before it unrolls and the line will fall in a heap. If you put enough energy into the line to make it unroll completely it usually bounces back at you and often puts a wind-knot in the leader. You will develop a number of bad casting habits if you try to learn to fish with one. Don’t buy a level line.

Double taper lines typically have a tapering section about 6 feet long on each end of the line with a level section (the belly) in between them. This taper is a carry-over from the hey-days of silk lines and bamboo fly rods. Because it has a long belly section, it can be roll-cast out to 60 - 70 feet in the hands of a skilled caster. The long taper also keeps the fly farther away from the belly section and thus allows a delicate presentation.

A double tapered line can also be the most economical line to use if you take the time to turn it around on the reel once a month or so. Turning it around on the reel reverses the end you are casting with and you will get almost twice as much longevity out of the line by doing so. If you wait until the first end is worn out before reversing the line you’ll lose this economic advantage. The other end has been so tightly coiled on the reel for so long it becomes unusable.

The disadvantage to double tapered lines is that they take up about an extra 50 yards of backing space on the reel and they don’t shoot line very well. It is more difficult to cast long distances with a double taper line because it requires aerializing large amounts of line before the shoot. The more false casts required before the shoot, the more skill is required of the caster. Also keep in mind that your fly is not fishing unless it is in the water. More false casts mean your fly is spending less time on the water.

Weight forward lines are by far the most popular lines and with good reason. The Orvis weight forward and double taper lines are virtually identical for the first 37 feet. Then, the weight forward line tapers down to a thin running line that allows easier long distance casts. Because the Orvis weight forward lines have the same long front taper as the Orvis double taper lines, they preserve that delicacy of presentation, and yet they are also easy to cast when long distances are needed. Some manufacturers make the taper on their standard weight forward lines short (3 to 4 feet) in order to turn over large flies more easily in windy conditions. By doing so, they sacrifice the delicacy of the line. They gain power but lose subtlety. Orvis also offers specialty lines such as the Quick Load and Bass Line for conditions where power is needed and subtlety is not, but the standard Orvis weight forward line is every bit as delicate as the DT. Another advantage for the weight forward line is that it takes up less room on the reel which allows you to add extra backing or perhaps even use a smaller, lighter reel than possible with the double taper line.

The disadvantage to the weight forward line is that you can’t turn it around when you wear out the front taper. You have to replace it. Another disadvantage is that the weight forward line is difficult to roll cast extreme distances. Once the running line gets past the tip-top of the rod, it becomes very difficult to put enough energy into this thin running line to turn over the fat belly section of the line. Orvis also makes a specialty line called the HLS line with a longer belly section to help facilitate long roll casts and mends, but for extreme roll casts the double taper is still the best choice.

Shooting taper lines (also known as a shooting head) are short sections of fly line (Orvis shooting tapers are 38 feet in length) that are attached to a separate running line. They are specifically used for long distance casting and are anything but delicate. They are most often used when fishing for steelhead, salmon, and some saltwater species. Because they are so short, a number of different types and densities can be kept in a wallet or pocket and interchanged easily, as the particular fishing conditions require.

Fly lines come in Floating and a number of different density sinking lines as well as combinations float/sink lines known as sink-tips. Most fly fishers learn to fly fish with a floating line and then purchase additional sinking or sink-tip lines as the need arises. In most cases you will be wise to purchase a floating line and learn how to use it before you branch out. If you are going to fish with a lodge or a guide and they tell you to bring a specific type of sinking or sink-tip line, that’s the time to go out and buy one.

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How do I choose a fly reel?

The quarry you pursue also determines the type of fly reel you “need”. If you are pursuing trout, the fly reel usually just holds the line and you really don't need anything fancy. If you are pursuing salmon, steelhead, or any saltwater species, the reel is much more important and you will need to set aside a larger part of your fly fishing budget for a good reel.

Unlike other types of reels, we don’t cast line off the fly reel, but rather strip the line off the reel and then cast it through the line guides controlling it with our fingers. We also rarely retrieve the line by reeling it back in. Instead, we retrieve the line by holding it loosely against the handle of the rod with the fingers of our rod-hand while pulling the line back in through these fingers with the other hand. This is called “stripping” the line in. We also strip line in or let it slip through our fingers to fight most trout. If you catch a particularly large or strong trout, he will often pull enough loose line out to put tension on the reel. Then we will use the reel to fight the fish and retrieve the line.

When you hook a strong fish that gets you ”on the reel”, you’ll need a reel with a smooth drag to give you a better chance of landing the fish. Even the low cost Clearwater reels that Orvis offers have a smooth enough drag for most situations. If you are using fine tippets such as 6X or 7X on your leader, the mid-priced Rocky Mountain and Battenkill reels are a better choice because they are smoother than the Clearwater reels and less likely to break off fish when using such fine tippets. If you want very light weight along with a very smooth drag, take a look at the more expensive CFO and CFO Disc series of reels. If you enjoy fishing with “gems”, then consider the Odyssey+ or Vortex series.

Many people enjoy using the best equipment they can afford and will often buy a reel that is more than is necessary for the quarry they are pursuing. Tactile feedback is a big part of the enjoyment of fly fishing, and they usually do this because they like the way the reel feels. As long as you realize the difference between “want” and “need” you should be able to pick out a reel you like in the price range you’re comfortable with.

When fishing for larger quarry such as salmon, steelhead, or saltwater fish, the reel suddenly becomes much more important. Trout that pull out all of your fly line and get into your backing are a rarity. Salmon, steelhead, and saltwater fish do it as a matter of course. It is not unusual for any of these species to pull out all your fly line and 100 yards or more of your backing in just a few seconds. Many of the reels that are adequate for trout will literally fly apart or seize-up when subjected to such high rpm’s. Larger, more powerful fish, also demand more backing capacity in the reels we choose for pursuing them and allow the use of stronger drags. Generally these reels should hold at least 150 to 200+ yards of backing behind the fly line. A smooth, strong, disc drag is a big plus in this type of fishing, and will help you land a higher percentage of the fish you hook.

For freshwater use, the Rocky Mountain and Battenkill 8/9 are both good choices. However, fishing in saltwater raises corrosion concerns. If you expect to use the reel in the salt, you’ll need the Battenkill series or better. If you do a lot of salmon, steelhead, or saltwater fishing, the extra cost for the added durability of the Battenkill Large Arbor, the Odyssey+ and Vortex reels, is money well spent. They are literally reels that, with a modicum of maintenance, will last a lifetime.

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Should I get a disc drag, or a spring and pawl reel?

Spring and pawl reels are the classic approach to drag on a fly reel, and are all that is really necessary for trout fishing. The drag is designed to keep the line from over-spooling when a fish makes a sudden run, and not really to put a lot of pressure on the fish. If you need to add extra drag to slow the fish down or turn him with this type of reel, you touch your finger to the exposed rim of the spool. This is a lot more sensitive and immediate than trying to constantly adjust the mechanical drag itself. Since trout are sprinters and not long distance runners, spring and pawl reels are usually more than adequate.

However, not all spring and pawl reels are created equal. If you would compare the Orvis Clearwater reel with the Orvis Battenkill spring and pawl reel, you’d easily discern the difference in the smoothness of the drag. If you compared the Battenkill reel to the CFO, you would again notice a big difference in the smoothness of the drag. The Clearwater reel is sufficient for most trout fishing. However, if you need to use light tippets (6X and 7X) and have a better chance of landing fish with them, the smoothness of the Battenkill spring and pawl reel is worth the difference in price. If you need (or want) a really lightweight, buttery smooth reel, the CFO is as good as it gets.

One advantage of using a disc drag reel for trout fishing is that you can get smoothness of drag comparable to the spring and pawl CFO at about half the price. You won’t get the extreme light weight of the CFO , but by using the Rocky Mountain, or Battenkill Disc series of reels, you will approach the smoothness offered by the CFO. The danger with using a Disc drag reel on trout is in unwittingly setting the drag too high. If you set it much above the tension needed to keep the reel from over-spooling, you will break off more trout with a disc drag reel instead of landing more trout with one.

When you start pursuing fish such as salmon, steelhead, and saltwater species, disc drag reels offer nothing but advantages. Here you are using heavier tippets and typically playing the fish off the reel every time you hook up. The smooth stronger drag offered by the disc drag models will allow you to more consistently land these fish, and do it in a shorter amount of time.

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Should I retrieve with my right hand or left hand?

When fly reels first became available, the only option was right hand retrieve, and it is the traditional method. This meant that if you were right handed, you would cast with your right hand and then switch the rod to your left hand when you began to reel in the line.

There are a couple of advantages to this method. One advantage is that most right handers can reel more quickly with their right hand, so perhaps they might get the fish to-hand a little more quickly than they would reeling with their left hand. The second advantage is that after casting continually with your right hand, switching hands to retrieve gives you a fresh, well rested arm to fight the fish. This probably isn't much of an advantage in trout fishing where most casts are within 40 feet, but for salmon, steelhead, and saltwater fishing, where long casts are the norm, it is a consideration.

The other option is to keep the rod in the right hand when fighting a fish and to retrieve with your left hand. This is by far the most popular method in use today. Although you may not wind the reel quite as quickly with your left hand (presuming you are right handed), you are using your strongest arm to fight the fish . You also never have to move your attention away from your quarry while switching the rod from one hand to the other, so there is one less opportunity to lose the fish.

Another reason for the popularity of left-hand wind is that many of those who have taken up fly fishing in the last 20 years have had previous experience with open-reel spin-fishing prior to their involvement with fly-fishing. Left hand retrieve is the norm with this type of fishing and that preference often carries with them when they make the transition to fly fishing.

Despite the debate that continues to rage throughout fly fishing circles, there is no one answer that fits all people in all situations. The best answer is use whichever hand works best for you.