If
you think there is more to the drop-shot rig than meets the eye, you're starting
out on the wrong foot. It is simplicity itself. In essence, a drop-shot rig does
nothing more than place a forage-sized lure up in the water column where suspended
bass are located and where artificial lures rarely spend much time. Regardless
of the depth being fished, it is crucial to keep the line relatively taut in a
vertical or near-vertical position. If not, the lure may drop out of the target
depth range.
Although
hook sizes can vary from No. 1 to 1/0 and the rigging style ranges from Texas-style
to nose-hooking, it is important to tie the Palomar knot so the hook is positioned
with the open gap facing upward. Two proven choices in drop-shot hooks are the
Owner J-hook or Gamakatsu EWG.
For
sonar-equipped anglers, a quick scan of the primary holding depth of both bass
and baitfish will indicate the proper hook-to-weight distance. For the electronically
challenged (and if state regulations permit), a multiple-hook rig also will identify
the most productive depth. Then, subtle adjustments can fine-tune the presentation
even further.
Generally,
medium-action spinning tackle (rigged with 8- to 10-pound-test line) is more efficient
than bait-casting gear in dropping the bait down and adjusting to changes in bottom
contour. Since the lures are small and tied directly to the main line, hooksets
can be performed quickly with smooth, upward sweeps of the rod.
Regarding
lure action, dead-calm conditions sometimes demand a gentle twitching or shaking
of the rod tip. In many cases, a slight current or breeze is all that's required.
Although
recent innovations such as sensitive, low-stretch fluorocarbon lines can be helpful
at extreme depths, they are not critical. The same is true of pull-away sinker
systems. Nothing beats the standard, swiveling bell sinker, a piece of tackle
that may be purchased even at a local convenience store.