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 Paddling
FAQ's
KAYAK
FAQ's | CANOE FAQ's
Q.
Which type of canoe is best for fishing? Which for touring? For
white water?
A. For fishing, a canoe with extra stability will increase
your enjoyment as well as your safety, so a wider canoe, one that
is 36" or wider with a flat bottom (versus a V bottom) is a good
choice.
When
touring, i.e., paddling some miles and hauling camping gear, a canoe
in the 16' to 17' length range is a proven favorite. A 34" to 37"
width will deliver a good combination of speed, paddling ease and
stability.
In
white water, a canoe with high sides and good volume in the bow
for riding over standing waves and holes is preferred. Some rocker
in the keel line makes the boat easier and quicker to maneuver around
obstacles and handle current well.
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Q.
What features should I look for in a PFD?
A. You want a PFD that is comfortable to wear so you will
wear it. Look for soft foam, plenty of room around the arms and
good clearance around your neck. The vest should be able to be snugged
up around your waist and mid section so that it won't ride up on
you when you are in the water. Front pockets are handy for holding
sunscreen and other essentials. PFDs with foam sections that articulate
and bend with your movement are generally more comfortable than
those without. Torso length adjustments on the shoulders of higher-end
PFDs also help ensure the best fit, especially for women, who tend
to have shorter torsos.
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Q.What
about aluminum canoes?
A.Well-made aluminum canoes are rugged and most dents can
be punched out. They are the ultimate no-maintenance canoe. Even
when left outdoors all year, neither rain nor snow affects them
and they will not take on weight with age. They are rigged with
flotation air tanks or foam compartments to render them unsinkable.
On the downside, aluminum canoes are noisy, tend to cling to (rather
than glide over) rocks, and conduct heat and cold. Most aluminum
canoes carry their beam well forward and aft so that they push rather
than cut through the water. This hull design, however, makes them
initially more stable and increases their carrying capacity.
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Q.
How do fiberglass canoes stack up against other canoes?
A. The relatively low cost of fiberglass has accounted for
much of its popularity. Its toughness, too, makes it attractive.
Minor repairs, even at riverside, are not difficult, although major
ones may be costly. Like aluminum, fiberglass can be left out in
all sorts of weather, maintenance is virtually nil and, with the
color built in, repainting is eliminated. Since fiberglass will
not float, buoyancy is achieved with the use of air chambers or
foam compartments. Many of the best fiberglass canoes have a balsa-wood
filler, sandwiched between fiberglass cloth and matting, making
them considerably stronger. While usually heavier than ABS (about
20 lb. more than equivalent ABS models) and some aluminum models,
fiberglass canoe weights can be considered reasonable.
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Q.
What are the uses and advantages of inflatable canoes?
A. Inflatable canoes have considerable appeal for certain
uses. When folded they are quite compact and their weight - about
twenty to thirty pounds - makes them ideal for toting to remote
fishing waters or for storage in today's small car trunks. The better-quality
versions are made of heavy-duty vinyl-coated polyester, or PVC,
with multiple air compartments (so if one compartment springs a
leak, you still have some flotation). Restrictions include speed,
since inflatables are relatively slow, and they have minimal carrying
capacity. Repair kits are a must on most trips. Also, you will want
to have a foot pump to inflate the canoe before starting out.
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Q.
What other gear should I consider before heading out canoeing?
A. Here's a list of some of the other gear we would suggest:
-
A sturdy roof rack on your car (it will greatly reduce problems
and add to your enjoyment)
-
Bow and stern tie-down lines - these are critical to the safe
transport of your canoe when you are on the road
-
A set of wheels to make getting your canoe to the water easier
-
A bailer and sponge
-
Padded canoe seats for longer journeys
-
Dry bags to keep extra clothes and snacks protected from water
coming in off your paddle, as well as from bow spray or rain
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Q.
How long should my canoe paddle be?
A. When you are sitting in the boat and the blade is totally
immersed, the top grip should be about shoulder high for general
and touring use. For white water and more specialized paddling,
a longer paddle, especially for the stern paddler, provides more
reach and leverage for maneuvering the boat.
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Q.
What are the advantages and disadvantages of wood canoes?
A. Traditional wood or cedar-strip canoes have wooden hulls
covered with clear fiberglass so the beauty of the wood shows through.
The cedar strips run longitudinally, making possible a hull shape
with a very fine "entry," for speed and ease of paddling. These
handsome canoes are light but also relatively fragile and easily
damaged in white water. They are all handmade and owners generally
restrict their use to flat water. (Wood/canvas canoes are another
type of traditional canoe that has become increasingly rare since
the introduction of less-expensive aluminum and other nonwood canoes.
Though highly responsive, they are relatively expensive to buy,
require steady maintenance and more-than-minor repairs are difficult
to make.)
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Q.
Why is ABS a popular canoe material?
A. ABS, or acrylonitrile butadiene styrene, has earned a
reputation among canoeists for near indestructibility. It is one
of the most damage-resistant canoe materials in use today. Badly
dented hulls, even those that have literally been bent around a
rock, have been restored to their original shape, without cracks
or leaks, by the application of heat. Canoeists have dubbed ABS
craft "rubber boats" and with good reason. Since the material tends
to flex slightly, it is forgiving, tending to slide over rocks,
or bounce off them, with little more than a surface scratch. Some
of its limitations are marginal buoyancy - it will float when capsized
but just barely, so don't expect to climb into a swamped ABS canoe
to await rescue, or to hand-paddle it ashore. Also, when wet, the
floor of an ABS canoe is slippery, which can prove troublesome in
rapids. ABS canoes require little maintenance and can be left outdoors
all year - although ones with wooden gunwales and peaks should be
propped to avoid ground moisture. ABS canoes also require special
epoxy resins for repairs.
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Q.
Why are polyethylene canoes so popular?
A. Polyethylene is probably the toughest of all canoe materials
and used more extensively than any other. Besides its durability,
it is also relatively inexpensive, adding to its attractiveness
for manufacturers and consumers alike. Polyethylene canoe prices
are about two-thirds to one-half those of ABS models. While they
are exceptionally tough, making field repairs uncommon, when major
repairs are required to polyethylene canoes they require special
repair materials.
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Q.
How big should a kneeling pad be?
A. If you plan to kneel while canoeing, you'll want a kneeling
pad that is large enough to protect your knees and toes, and that
will stick to the hull of your boat. You may choose to glue the
pad to your boat, or buy or make one that will stay where you put
it to give you a cushy grip with your knees.
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